Robert Treat Paine Papers, Volume 1
I have wrote you from this place, by Capt. Aston who sai
Pratique.
RTP arrived in Cadiz on Oct. 11 and did not sail from there until Dec. 5. The delay enabled him to see much of the town and the surrounding area. His diary indicates that he dined out, went to the theater, visited churches and convents, traveled to the town of Xeres, and took lessons in the Spanish language. His diary entry of Dec. 5 contains the following description of Cadiz: "The City of Cadiz is all built of Stone and very close, being surrounded by a very high Wall and very strong Fortifications at the South Side. It stands on a Point of Land that runs out into the Sea, so that you may see almost as soon as the Land. Except the high hills of Granade, it is exceeding Populous, there being 100,000 Souls inhabiting it, among which are of all Nations, and a vast Numbers of Beggars. Here are very few Protestant, being only a few Merchants who reside here for the sake of Business. The City is Adorn'd with many Sumptuous Buildings the Most Elegant of which is a New Church which has been building 30 years and not a tenth part done. It is all of Curious Marble and a most Stupendous Pile of Building. The Market of this City is well Stock'd with Fish which is a great Support to the Numberless Poor, Provisions and Roots Sawse &c. are dear beyond all Account. They have no good Water in the City (the chief of it being Made Land) but are Supply'd with choice, from the Port of St. Mary's on the other side the Bay, tho' the Common People use a great deal of Rain Water. Here are no Gardens nor any place of Cool Retirment, which renders it exceeding unpleasant tho' they are favoured with the Sea Breeze in the Summer which render the place cooler than the Country. The Streets are exceeding Narrow and monstrously Nasty and is every way as Unpleasant a place as I can conceive off. This being a Place of no Manufacture all sorts of Goods are exceeding dear. The Country over the Bay is pleasant, being an open Champain Country with