Diary of Charles Francis Adams, 1862
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1862-08-24
I went out early in quest of a bath, and for the first time found an admirable establishment, and a delicious saltwater plunge. Torquay pleases me much in its external appearance. The houses now up the hills as they are pictured in Italian landscapes. The Hotel faces upon a wide opening which gives air and light and animation to the view. As this was the anniversary of the first operation of the Act of Uniformity182 I thought it likely to be noticed by the Distinction, so I enquired and found a Chapel where I could attend. It was in the Abbey road, a plain and new but very substantial edifice, fitted to accommodate perhaps three hundred persons. It was entirely filled by very respectable looking people. The service was Independent congregational like ours in New England. His sermon was long. The topic was the beauty of fidelity. He drew his illustrations from the history of the early martyrs, from the struggle of the reformation, and lastly from the conduct of these who preferred ejection from their livings to the alternative of accepting doctrines in which they could not believe. He alluded to the instances in this country of Devon, and drew from them an exhortation to his hearers to follow their example in the trials to which they might be exposed. There were but the same in kind. They grew out of prosperity rather than adversity— Bu they were not less severe. He closed by picturing the nature of the reward. The sermon had no particular excellence, but it told well on the audience. I liked it because it was neither formal nor empty. It grappled with an idea and with facts. It is impossible to deny that there is force in the simple direct style of worship which contrasts strongly with the restraints of an established creed. I can feel impressed by both forms of worship, but that which exercises my mind leaves the most satisfaction. In the afternoon we all went out to dine. I had Brooks with me i na small which, which conveyed us by a private way to several points on the westerly coast. Anstis Cove, and Babbacomb and Watecomb.The way is all along the high Cliffs from which the indentations of the coast and these various openings to the sea appear highly picturesque. On our way home the coachman stopped us at the new cemetery which is pretty but without interest. I was led to notice the early age of most of those buried here. This would be an argument against the salubrity of the place, were it not for the fact that many desperate cases are sent here to terminate. The very183 fame of the air leads people to crowd here after every other resource has failed them. We got home in season to enable me to walk towards sunset to the point of land which makes one end of the bay of Tor. The water view and that towards the town were equally charming. I think the attractions of the this situation justify the repute in which it is held. I could be quite content to live here.