Diary of Charles Francis Adams, 1862
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1862-08-15
I was early out in search of a bath, led to it by a sign on a house which I noticed as we landed from the river. On enquiry I found that the sign had become obsolete more than twenty years ago. After breakfast we all went out to look at the ruins of a great castle which looks so imposing on a cliff directly over the river. It is a very extensive edifice, and seems to have been used later than most of them. For it is said to have been the prison of Henry Martin the regicide for twenty years. A part of the banqueting room has been converted into a dwelling for a keeper who shows the premises. The objection to this is that the place looks cleaned up for show rather than a relic of time and the strife of the elements. Its site is finer than Raglan, but in nothing else does it compare with it. Having accomplished this examination we were ready to depart. It had been my intentions to cross to Bristol in a Steamer. But finding that it left only with the evening tide, which would waste the day here I determined to take the railways round by Gloucester, which would thus give an opportunity to visit the Cathedral there. An interval of a couple hours before the departure of the next train was employed in this way. This edifice is imposing by its tower, and the elegance of its nave. The transepts are not so fine as elsewhere, but the cloisters are the most complete in the kingdom. There is some mixture of styles which detracts from the general effect but on the whole it is very striking. Robert of Normandy and Edward the second are buried here. We scarcely had time to see all before we were reminded of the railway train, which carried us in due course and with very great rapidity through Bristol to Bath. Here we were driven to the York Hotel where dinner had already been ordered for us, by the servants who had come in advance.