Diary of Charles Francis Adams, volume 7
1836-07-19
Lebanon Springs
A pleasant morning. We had concluded to remain here for the day, and in consequence to go over to the Village of the Shakers, the main point of attraction here. Accordingly, breakfast being over, I procured a Carriage and we went, accompanied by our Attaché, Mrs. Thresher. Our ride was a very pleasant one and reminded me of the many we took heretofore. We arrived at the Quaker1 Village and my Wife went in to make her purchases at the shop, the usual tax for curiosity in travelling. There is something a little remarkable in the economy of this establishment. They make a great deal of what they use, and what they make is certainly executed with great care. Perhaps the honesty of the people is better shown by the attention which they give to making well and from good materials whatever they sell than by any outward profession or appearance. They were obliging and attentive to us. The women took us over their dairy and made us taste their beer, their blackberry and their currant wine. So that we were glad to get away with our purchases.
After a ride, we returned to the House and I indulged in the luxury of a cold bath. The weather is hardly warm enough to give to these their full relish. And yet there is a softness in the water which is at any time very delightful. Formerly the cold baths were narrow and several in number, but now they have all been thrown into one which is an improvement.
Dinner, after which a walk up the Hill behind the House with Mr. Gray. The Country around here is pretty, but it is monotonous. The want of water prospect is a great deficiency and the perpetual hill and dale is nearly as bad as the perpetual plain. The cultivation and variety of forest, relieves very much and on the whole presents a cheerful scene. We went round to the Pittsfield road and here observed a precipice over which was a singularly constructed bridge and then rambled home, thus consuming very nearly all of the afternoon. The evening was taken up with writing to my Mother who has not heard from us since our departure from Fishkill.2
Thus in MS.
Letter to LCA, who had arrived in Quincy, in Adams Papers.
1836-07-20
Northampton
The morning looked very cloudy, but we ventured to make our start and it cleared away. I left Lebanon with a little regret, as it is a place I think I could enjoy with a small society very much. But it was with less inasmuch as there was nobody there at this time whom I regretted. Our ride to Pittsfield was a tedious one, it being partly over a very long hill, and partly because we were much loaded with travelling companions one of whom was by no means an agreeable personage. I congratulate myself that in this long journey I have met with nothing worse.
At Pittsfield, our company was separated, and we were put into a separate coach with Lieutenant West and his lady, our travelling companions to Lebanon, after which our journey was very pleasant. Here we were again in Massachusetts after a five weeks absence. One during which we have been over an immense extent of Country and seen manners infinitely various and differing from our own. We passed through the towns of Dalton, Hinsdale, Peru, Chesterfield, Worthington, Williamsburg, all of which had the neat and comfortable appearance of long settlement. This is one of the great Nurseries for the Western Country and yet one would hardly wish to move even to better lands when incumbered with forest if one might judge from the thrifty appearance of every thing.
The hilly character of the Country prevented our going fast, so that we were all day going forty five miles. The road winds however very beautifully and takes advantage of the occasional vallies through which flow some exceedingly pretty mountain brooks. Near Northampton there are woods and we saw in abundance the Kalmia in blossom which is indigenous with them.
At last we reached Northampton, which my Wife was very glad of for she is near giving out. Her health has not been so much benefitted as I expected by the Journey. Her system appears to be one best calculated for quiet life and plenty of domestic society. The evening was consumed in getting arranged. Here Mrs. Thresher took her leave of us not much to our regret. She took advantage of the going on tomorrow of Lieut. West and thus saved herself the day’s delay here and the inconvenience to which she is exposed in our company.