Diary of Charles Francis Adams, volume 7

Wednesday 22d. CFA

1836-06-22

Wednesday 22d. CFA
Wednesday 22d.
Hudson River—Albany

It was by no means clear today, but the clouds which had been hanging upon the mountains rose leaving their tops clear and giving reason to expect at least a cessation of rain. I think I should have gone today at any rate as Mrs. DeWint was expecting a new supply of visitors to take our places, so that I was glad the weather was no worse. Our moving also made the rest of the guests move which was important.

We all got ready early, depending however upon Mr. DeWint for decisive action as to getting us over in time to the other side of the River where the Albany steamer touches. He went over himself early 12having business at Newburgh, and promised to return with his carriage in season to take us down, but time passed and he did not appear, so that at last we concluded at least to walk to the ferry and meet him there. There is but one boat for this river here a mile wide, and it had just started from our side before we got there. We had therefore to wait it’s going over, returning and then over again, three trips with intervals of waiting before we could hope to get to the place where the Albany boat would take us up, in addition to which, when the bell rung twelve the hands of the ferry stopped at Newburgh to dine. It was therefore tolerably clear that we should not be in time if we waited for this mode of conveyance. The next thing was to find out a substitute in the way of a boat. Mr. DeWint who had crossed the River in this way in order to meet us now exerted himself. There was but one boat on the landing and that was in a boat house and fastened with a chain and padlock. To find a key to fit this, the owner being absent with the right one in his pocket, was the point. All the keys on the landing were tried without success until just as we were becoming hopeless, Joseph H. Adams offered his and it fitted. To get the boat down and round with the baggage on board was the work of a moment. My Wife, two Misses DeWint and I got in with Mr. DeWint and one oarsman, and we got across having the Steamer from below in sight and approaching with her customary velocity. Thus it happened that we had barely time to take leave of our friends and thank them for their civility before we had to rush on board the Champlain. And it will be seen in the subsequent record that upon this narrow chance must have depended much of the pleasure which we enjoyed.

The day continued dull and the clouds were collected around the Catskill Mountains as we went up, in such a manner as to make the Pine Orchard any thing but agreeable or attractive. We met but few acquaintances. Mr. Geo. Bond, his Wife and daughter were the only people and they went only to Hudson. The Steamer’s Machinery gave way so as to slacken her pace and we did not reach our destination until nearly nine. I had a fair opportunity however to view the river all the way up which I was unable to do in my former trip. On the whole, what stream is there to exceed it in beauty? I know of none. But I have travelled little.

Our arrival at Albany was attended by the most unpleasant landing I ever experienced. The narrow Wharf was crowded and when I was anxious to get a Carriage to convey my Wife who was suffering from a severe headach, I made matters worse. For the vehicle, I procured was so jammed in among carts, drays and carriages as to make the effort to 13appear dangerous to get out. In doing so we approached so closely to the water as to produce in my wife excessive terror and in myself uneasiness on her account. At last we reached Congress Hall. She went immediately to bed, and after inquiring for and seeing Mr. White who informed me that his arrangements were made to go tomorrow, and renewed his invitation to us to join them which I accepted, I retired also.

Thursday. 23d. CFA

1836-06-23

Thursday. 23d. CFA
Thursday. 23d.
Albany—Schenectady

Morning pleasant but doubtful. The day was showery. Albany looked however much pleasanter than I expected, which is probably owing to the more favorably situated hotel at which I was stopping. It is however a dull place for a stranger. I walked round to see the changes which had taken place since I was here, but could not mark them well as I had observed very superficially the first time.1 There is every appearance of prosperity, and yet this depends upon but a very slender thread. The Navigation below this place is so difficult and so much obstructed as to make it really desirable that the depot for canal navigation should be established further down, say at or opposite Hudson, thirty miles below. Should it so happen that the public interest and private enterprise combined to set that way, Albany would find herself soon falling into the rear. At present however the mass of interest both private and public centred in this place gives to it a predominance.

Afterwards my Wife wished to make some purchases and I accompanied her. Then home where I sat down and wrote a letter to Mrs. Frothingham,2 giving a detail of our expedition from West Point. I filled it with matters of no great interest to her, but I could do nothing else, and my Wife was not willing to write.

At dinner we saw some of the noted Albany Regency. Mr. Flagg and Mr. Beardsley were at the house and the former was quite talkative and civil.3 There were also two sons of Mr. Van Buren at table, one a very modest youth, the other our old acquaintance, John, transformed into a man. I did not recognize him. We had no time for the desert, being called to go to the railway depot to be in time for the cars for Schenectady.

We started in company with Mr. White, going out of the limits of the City in a car drawn by horses, for which an engine was then substituted which took us with great rapidity to the end of our trip. Just 14before arriving, there is an inclined plane which we descended—A process of some little hazard and yet so often done as to appear of very little.4 Schenectady is a place not very remarkable for any thing. It lies very level and is distinguished for poor, ill looking houses. The bricks which they make along this whole region are very indifferent. After walking about it, I dawdled away a couple of hours waiting for the remainder of Mr. White’s party which was coming from Saratoga Springs. They came at last in the shape of Mr. and Mrs. Joy and her child, Miss Story and Miss White. Mrs. Paige and Mr. and Mrs. Edward Curtis of New York together with several young men made up the number.

The first poor house we have stopped at. There were great fires in all the parlors, and the remainder of the building was unusually exposed by the changes the man was making to enlarge his accommodations. Small bedroom and middling rest.

1.

With his mother, CFA had visited Albany in 1826. His impressions of the city then were not favorable; see vol. 2:72.

2.

The letter is missing.

3.

Azariah Cutting Flagg, New York state controller, and Samuel Beardsley, state attorney general, were prominent figures in the “Albany Regency,” which, under the leadership of Martin Van Buren, controlled the state’s policies for many years.

4.

Between Albany and Schenectady a sharp change in elevation occurs in the course taken by the Mohawk River and by the Erie Canal parallelling it. In consequence, the distance between the two cities overland was but 15 miles, while that by canal was 30 miles, punctuated by 27 locks. The cars between the cities made the journey in 3 hours; the canal boat consumed 24. Schenectady, then, at this period, became for passengers the chosen port on the canal for embarkation and disembarkation (Ronald E. Shaw, Erie Water West, A History of the Erie Canal, 1792–1854. Lexington, Ky., 1966, p. 214).