Diary of John Quincy Adams, volume 1

19 [Section Title] JQA [Section Title] Adams, John Quincy
Section Title
A Journal from the time I left Corunna to the time I arrived at Astorga.
Sunday 26th. JQA

1779-12-26

Sunday 26th. Adams, John Quincy
Sunday 26th.

Their were three Carriages all drawn by Mules, two at each carriage and each carriage carries two persons except one which carries three. The three servant's Andrew1 Mr. Allen's, John Mr. Dana's, and Stevens My Pappa's rode a Mule back as also did our Guide whose name is Martin, Mr. Lagoanere rode on a horse belonging to him. And thus equipped our caravan set out. In the first carriage was Mr. Allen and Sammy Cooper. One of their Mules had near a Hundred little bells tied round it's neck. Next Mr. Dana, and Mr. Thaxter, one of theirs had some bells but not many. And lastly My Pappa, brother Charles and Myself. Neither of our Mules had any bells. We pass'd I beleive almost 20 crosses. We came about 3 leagues and a half good way and the other half a league was very bad and muddy. I forgot to say that our first stage was 12 Miles off of Corrunna; at about 7 o clock we arrived at a village call'd Betancos. We found a place to lodge for once not among the Mules, however I beleive that we sha'nt have that to boast of long. This city of Betancos otherwise Betanzos was formerly the Capital of the province of Galicia which is to this day call'd the Kingdom of Galicia. We have right against our lodgings a large Church. This also is the place where the archives otherwise call'd records of this province are kept at present.

1.

Andrew Dismié (or Desmia) had been a servant of one of the officers of La Sensible. Upon arrival in Spain and with that officer's consent, he served Allen on the journey from El Ferrol to Bordeaux (JA to the Governor of La Coruña, 18 Dec. 1779; JA to Andrew Dismié, 15 May 1780, both LbC, Adams Papers).

Monday 27th. JQA

1779-12-27

Monday 27th. Adams, John Quincy
Monday 27th.

This morning at six o clock our ears were assaulted by “Tis time to get up.” If the Guide had not have kept his time the bells of the Church opposite us would have kept the time for him, for about a Quarter of an hour after we got up they begun to ring and rung for about a half an hour. Our Muletiers all went to Mass but we were not much obliged to them for it. However, let them do as they please, for I beleive that is the best way. Mr. Lagoanere 20says that there are two convents for men (the Dominican and the Franciscan) and two Nunneries for women. The one which is opposite us is the Dominican. Mr. Lagoanere also says that St. Yago1 is the Capital of this province by name because the body of St. James was buried there and because the Archbishop is there at present but Corunna is actually the Capital And the Governor of the province and the audience are there. The building in which the archives are kept, is over against us. It is a large building and is not unlike one of the Colleges at Cambridge. The orders of Nuns I do not know; they have besides these a parish Church, but the Carriages are ready and I must go. There is but one Nunnery of women which is of the order of Augustines. At 8 o clock Mr. Lagoanere took leave of us all and we set out. We pass'd several prodigious mountains and passing over one of them the Axletree of one of our carriages broke and we were obliged to let it stay to have the Axletree mended. We proceeded on and stopt at a Miserable Cottage. In the Chamber Where they put us there was straw, chests, grain, barrels, and chestnuts but however I expect to see more of this yet. We saw a very high rock and on the top of it? a Chappel which our guide told us was dedicated to St. Martin. Rain all day with intermissions. We could go but four Leagues to day.

1.

Santiago de Compostela, located about 30 miles south by west of La Coruña, well off the route to France traveled by JA and his party. From medieval times Santiago was one of the most frequently visited places of pilgrimage in western Europe (JA, Diary and Autobiography , 2:418; 4:217–218).